Cambodia is a country trying to find an identity. It has remnants of French colonialism, an influx of western money and businesses, and at its core is the Khmer people and their language. Unlike Vietnam, which had its language changed drastically by the French, the Khmer language survived the period where they too were ruled by France. In fact, Vietnam is one of the only Asian countries to not have a language system based on symbols. But this post isn't about Vietnam.
I got to Phnom Penh, Cambodia about 6pm yesterday, after a confusing and at times nerve-wracking experience at the border figuring out the visa process. I'll post more on that later. Since arriving here I can't help but compare everything to Vietnam, both positive and negative. I'm very much enjoying my time here, as English is much more commonly spoken, USD is their secondary currency, and it has the same sort of patina on every surface and space, buildings seemingly dancing on the precipice of decay.
I'd heard that the Cambodian people are incredibly friendly and so far I have to say that's true. Even though the tuk-tuk drivers will hound you for a ride as they do in Vietnam, I haven't really had the feeling yet that someone is trying to scam me. Even today at the Central Market where you can become a proud "Rolex" owner, the vendors were willing to bargain even if they are looking to make a buck off of us. I can't quite explain the difference but the people here are quick to smile and say hello.
I haven't yet gone to see the Killing Fields or the torture prisons, and I'm not sure I will. I don't want to pretend that those atrocities aren't real, or don't still affect aspects of Cambodian people and culture to this day, but I also have a hard time with such depressing experiences. I'd be broke right now if I followed my impulse to hand money over to a crippled or disabled street beggar every time I passed one on the street.
Our (I'm here with my friend Ryan) first hostel was a clean but basic place called Rachana Hostel. It was centrally located and only $12 for a double room. But that was an online only deal so we'd have to pay $25 to stay each additional night so instead we headed out to a place called Good Morning Guesthouse, where I sit and type this now. It's definitely a hippie backpacker place but the price was fair and it was near our first hostel. Had I known the room would look like something I'd imagine a Cambodian prison would look like maybe I'd have gone elsewhere... but for now I'm here and making the best of it as always. The staff is friendly and they have a cafe/lobby area with comfortable chairs. Tomorrow we will find somewhere else to stay, there is no shortage of hostels and guesthouses in the area.
I'll be here for at least 5 days; after my time here in Phnom Penh I'll either bus to Sihoukanville with Ryan or head back to Saigon. I'd like to go to Siem Reap where you can see the ancient temple of Angkor Wat, but that's a 5-hour bus ride the opposite direction. At some point I'll hit the street with my camera and try to capture some of the interesting architecture, the pagodas, and the people. Supposedly there is an elephant sanctuary somewhere nearby, if so you can bet on me visiting. Hopefully wherever you are reading this you're in good health and good spirits, thanks for reading my blog and please stay tuned for more updates!
Thanks for the update, Aaron. Get to that elephant sanctuary and post photos! Is the Cambodian food any different? When you mention the French influence it reminds me of my Vietnamese friend telling me that while in grade school she always studied a second language. Mostly French, then when it was a possibility Russia was moving in on them, the second language switched to Russian. Then in the middle of war time the second language switched to English. Just shows the turmoil Viet Nam was in for many years.
ReplyDeleteI looked up the elephant sanctuary and it's actually pretty far away, and in the other direction than the one I'm headed in :\.
DeleteThe food is similar but the spices are a little different. They still eat lots of soup, rice, and noodles obviously, but different names and slightly different tastes. From what I've had of it so far I prefer Vietnamese food, but I've had way more of it.
Yeah Vietnam was in flux for most of the 20th century, you see it in the architecture and in some ways the people. Some of the older folks speak a little french still, most of the people under 50 know a bit of English. Haven't met any that speak Russian except for a friend who is Vietnamese but was born and raised in Russia. I believe Russia and Vietnam have been allies for a long time, both being communist countries the last 40 years. People here seem to like Putin.